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Seatools said this drive passed it's long test but I can't get Windows 10 disk to format drive. I've deleted both partitions and created new ones and formatted both unallocated drives, but twice now, Windows 10 tells me it can't install on this drive and gives me an error message stating just that it can't install Windows 10 on this drive.
I'm trying to do a clean install and choosing "I don't have a key" option.
Are you doing that from the Win10 setup or not?Quote:
I've deleted both partitions and created new ones and formatted both unallocated drives
Note that Win10 needs some free space to create the Recovery, EFI, and Microsoft Reserved (MSR) partitions, in addition to the Windows partition (4 total).
If you used a third party partitioning tool and didn't leave any free space, that could be the problem.
I would just delete all the partitions and allow Win10 to create the default partitions. You can limit the size of the Windows partition. If you need other partitions, create them after Win10 is installed.
I should have said I used the Windows 10 disk to do all that and it created the allotted partition it needs to install the initial first partition.
Btw. should it take hours to do the first initial setup? Because this one is doing that, I took a nap waiting on it to start the install.
I didn't have this problem on a new drive I installed Windows 10 on for my niece. It went easy as pie.
I created a new .iso disk and am going to test that later tonight. After supper. ;)
So I guess you got it going then?
It depends on the hardware. If it's really old hardware, it will take longer. It would take longer installing from DVD vs Flash drive too.Quote:
Btw. should it take hours to do the first initial setup?
It's not old hardware, it's a brand new motherboard and 4gbs ram, plus stand alone vid card, I bought last year.
Hmm, hard to say without more details. But a DVD install would take longer than a Flash drive install, just going by media speed.
All the new builds I've done have used SSDs and flash installs. I'm not sure how much slower it would be with a HD and DVD install. Maybe someone else can chime in about that.
Since it's 4GB of RAM, I'm assuming 64-bit Windows.
Also how much video RAM does the card have? Windows will reserve the same amount of system RAM as video RAM. So that would take away from available RAM for Windows.
Tried again this time the error message said it couldn't install on this partition, error code 0x80070057
Hmm. I found this, but it's for Win7.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...nstall-windows
Did you delete all partitions on the drive BEFORE doing the Win10 install? You might even want to use a third-party tool like Minitool to get rid of all the old partitions.Quote:
Symptoms
You receive error 0x80070057 when you try to clean install WIndows 7.
Cause
This error occurs because the partition that is reserved for system is damaged.
https://www.partitionwizard.com/free...n-manager.html
I give up. I'll find another hard drive for it and hope that works. Seatools passed this drive But ever time I try to install either Windows 10 or Windows 7 it says it can't format the partition and returns the error code I gave above. This after I used Windows 10 and then the Windows 7 disks.
This is a Hitachi drive.
And the thing that stumps me is this was working with Windows 7 on it before the previous motherboard was killed.
Doh. Seatools can do basic tests on non-Seagate drives, but it's still possible that it could miss other issues.Quote:
This is a Hitachi drive.
If you're going to get a new drive anyway, I'd get an SSD, at least for the boot drive. It makes a world of difference.
Why would it do that? If the card is installed separate from onboard why would Windows allot the ram (512) of the video card? That makes no sense to me.Quote:
Windows will reserve the same amount of system RAM as video RAM. So that would take away from available RAM for Windows.
This is not new to Win10.Quote:
Why would it do that? If the card is installed separate from onboard why would Windows allot the ram (512) of the video card? That makes no sense to me.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...on-windows-7-b
Quote:
For example, if you have a video card that has 256 MB of on-board memory, that memory must be mapped within the first 4 GB of address space. If 4 GB of system memory is already installed, part of that address space must be reserved by the graphics memory mapping. Graphics memory mapping overwrites a part of the system memory. These conditions reduce the total amount of system memory that is available to the operating system.
I already knew about the ram allotted in any 32bit OS. But on my computer, using Windows 7, under where they say to look, it says 16GB ram usable, and I'm running Windows 7 pro 64bit.
I'm not getting a new drive for him. He's spent enough on this computer already. Yes, I would love that he had an SSD but a regular hard drive for now will have to do. He's 74 years old and never used or even turned a computer on and just got laid off from his job after almost 14 years there.
Ordered non SSD 500GB for $28.00 from Amazon. Will be here Tuesday. The other drive I had here isn't even being seen by the BIOS, so I had no other option than to order him a new drive. :(
Ah ok. Good luck with the new drive
Thanks. I think it will be a breeze on the new drive.
So far so good. New harddrive, new DVD drive and it's taking a lot less time to install Windows 10.
And then, it decides I need to login when he doesn't even have an email account. So, I deleted the partitions, created new ones and attempting to install his original Windows 7 instead.
I'm not sure what you mean. You can install with a local account.Quote:
And then, it decides I need to login when he doesn't even have an email account.
http://www.thewindowsclub.com/instal...-local-account
If you provide an email address. I already tried that and it didn't work any better.
A local account doesn't require an email address.Quote:
If you provide an email address.
Okay. Every time I tried to do a local account setup, I'd get the Microsoft notification. Reading the info you gave me in my other thread, I see a step I missed. I'm going to attempt the upgrade later because allergies are making my eyes burn and it's hard to focus on what I'm reading.
It's possible that the local account links have changed between each of the Win10 releases. MS switches things around without warning, so you might need to look at the screens carefully.
On the .iso I got it shows a list of available installations. These start with Windows 10s then go on to Windows 10 Home, I think Pro was one of them too. Which would you choose to install on his computer?
I'm assuming you upgraded from Win7 or 8/8.1? If you upgraded from Win7 Home Premium, then you'd use Win10 Home.
I.E. Home to Home or Pro to Pro.
Win10S is a stripped-down version of Win10. I wouldn't even bother with it.
Windows 10s only allows you to install Windows Store Apps (there aren't any of those that you would likely want), so you probably don't want that. I wouldn't choose anything less than Pro, but you might be able to get by with Home. Below are some links to a comparison of the three:
https://www.digitaltrends.com/comput...e-vs-pro-vs-s/
https://www.techadvisor.co.uk/featur...-10-s-3618710/
https://www.windowscentral.com/windo...ion-comparison
https://www.techradar.com/news/softw...lained-1299310
https://www.pcworld.com/article/2952...o-upgrade.html
I'll do home version. I figured the 10s was like a previous OS that was called "starter".
Win10S is a stripped down version that was made to compete with Chromebooks. You definitely don't want that.
I'm not sure what that means. I downloaded the .iso back in September.Quote:
Originally Posted by Midknyte
For each version of Win10, they change things like menus around without warning. Some screenshots may be outdated, so you need to actively look for the options.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/itpr...se-information
If you downloaded the .iso in September, then you probably have version 1703. The current version is 1709. They each have a separate .iso.
Ok, understand now. Thanks.