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Scroll down to the GlacialTech Igloo 2500 and take a good look at the clip that holds the hsf on.
http://www.digit-life.com/articles2/...2k3-part2.html
Then looking through the charts http://www.digit-life.com/articles2/...2k3-part4.html
I think removing the hsf and cleaning things up and then reistalling is the route I would go.
Still digging.
http://www.glacialtech.com/product/socketA.htm
Found them. Can you match yours to one of the models there.
KatMac...It hasn't been mentioned yet but while you have the case open, I would suggest a good cleaning. You can use a can of compressed air to blow out a lot of the dust that can cause a lot of heat build up. The fan blades especailly need to be kept clean since a build up on the blades can drastically cut down on the ability of the fans to move air...but I would not use the compressed air on the fan blades...I would carefully clean each blade with a q-tip and some rubbing alcohol or even just water...either way will work...depending upon just how much build up there is on the blades.
I know that my next comment is late in this thread but if you are concerned about mounting the Zalman...since it will require removing the board...then may I suggest that you take a look at the cpu hsf that I use...the Arctic Cooler Freezer 64 Pro:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185125
On my board it mounts just like the stock hsf...don't have to remove board...doesn't need a support plate behind the board....lighter that the Zalman....very quiet....good price.
But...I don't know if it will fit your board..:confused:
The Zalman's are great coolers...I was just wanting to offer you another alternative...if it will fit.:)
Train, thanks for doing all that leg work! :)
If I had to wager, I'd say it's the Igloo 2500. I think they are just showing different views of the 2500 and 2500 Pro at this link you provided. Mine has the big lever as shown on the Igloo 2500 Pro, but on the other side are the two smaller square 'hooks' as shown on the 2500. Mine has exact body colors (copper base area with grids/fins, gold colored frame that sits between fan and HS) as the Igloo 2500 (on the 2500 pro that frame piece I refer to is purple).
I don't understand the charts, but would like to. I see the Igloo 2500 is near the top of each chart. Don't know if that's good or bad :D
hi stevejr (are you related to our esteemed Steve Jones? :D ). I clean pretty diligently in there with air (thankfully the Sonata case is a breeze to open compared to some I've had), and the Sonata has a plastic front filter which I also slide a scotch brite pad into for extra filtering. Still notice extraordinary amounts of dust -enough it concerns me. For awhile I even disconnected the 120mm 'add on' fan I put in front area of the case, thinking it was pulling more gunk in than cooling. But that didn't reduce dust. (Locale could be an issue. The room the PC sits in has only cold air returns on this level of the house, so there's a lot of air movement in this room.) Yet even with my attempts at diligence, when I started pulling hardware out the other day there were some nasty hidden dust bunnies. So I did a deep cleaning this time, wiped off fan blades with a plain Q-tip. I'll do it again with alcohol, though. And thanks for heat sink recommendation. ;)
PC has been running for a couple hours now with new power supply in. I'm going to reboot into BIOS, get some temps and post back.
OK, I went into BIOS and got 'health status'. I don't know a lot about this, but lgbpop's CPU warning probably is still warranted?
PC Health Status
CPU V Core 1.63V
+2.5V = 2.67
+3.3V = 3.31
+5.0V = 5.10
+12V = 12.54
-12V = (-)12.19
Memory Voltage 2.68
AGP Voltage 1.48
Battery Voltage 2.91
Current System Temp 33c/91F
Current CPU Temp 61c/141F
Current CPU Fan Speed 3183 RPM
That CPU temp is still hovering at not good?
I have to go to the dentist now (I'd rather take out the mboard/CPU if I had a choice :D ). So I'll shut it off till later this afternoon.
Thanks again!
~Kat
Current CPU Temp 61c/141F
That line is what we are looking at. Yes it is higher than I like, it is under 67C where I hit the panic button. No, you are not near the 90C where the cpu is in danger of burning up.
Now I am using the same cpu but on a MSI KT4V mobo. So the temp being what it is says the hsf needs to be removed, the remanents of the thermal patch removed, I used Artic Silver 5 to replace it, and my temps went back down to 50C. Now if my temps had not gone down, I would have figured the heat sensor was bad.
Now I agree that the Igloo 2500 is your hsf. And what the charts showed was how well it did getting rid of heat. The higher on the chart the better it did. Beating out my old Volcano 7+ right nicely.
Now I commented on a possible Fan change, so to help you to know what to get we will look at the fan spec's for the Igloo 2520 which will meet or exceed those of the 2500.
Igloo 2520 - http://www.glacialtech.com/product/socketA_2520.htm
Type - 12 Volts / Ball Bearing [Ball bearings last a lot longer, well worth the extra cost]
Dimension (mm) - 80 x80 x 25 [the size of it in the metric system. The english system is not used anymore]
Speed (RPM) - 2.200 (±10%) [that means the fan will spin between 2,000 to 2400 revelutions per minute. Nice and slow, which means quiet. ]
Airflow (CFM) - 32.71 (±10%) [CFM - the amount of air it moves in a minute which is more than my old Volcano 7+ did. Seeing as the more air moved across the hsf, the more heat that can be removed, therefore the cooler it will run.]
Noise (dBA) - 25 .0 [all sound is measure in dBA, the higher the number, the louder it is. The RPM is a big factor in generating this noise. The high, the noisier. Believe me a fan that hits 6,000 rpm drives me nuts.]
So, if you can locate a fan that meets those requirements you have located a replacement.
KatMac...I have located some 80mm replacement fans for you. These are all very good fans and any of them would work well. I have two of the Scythe 120mm fans myself...they are the S-Flex series...and I really like them...very quiet and push plenty of air. The Sunon fans are also known to be very good.
http://www.nexfan.com/su80x80x25fa.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...34ab3ab8e74eb3
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...34ab3ab8e74eb3
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...34ab3ab8e74eb3
Quite often the dBa ratings that the manufacturer gives for their fans are way off but I will vouch for the very quiet running of the Scythe fans...at least for the S-Flex series of the 120mm fans that I have. I would probably go for the Scythe fan that spins at 2500 rpm...and only $6.95.
For the combination of good cfm's...low dBa's...low rpm's...these are very good choices. These are just a few that I knew about.
Oopps!! I listed one of the fans twice...sorry...here is the other Sunon 80mm
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...34ab3ab8e74eb3
The Sunon's have a higher cfm rating...so if their dBa's are close enough then they would be a better choice...I just don't know how they actually sound.
Thanks guys, very much! stevejr, greatly appreciate the fan recommendations. Train, thanks for explaining in detail, I'll print it out for future reference ;)
I didn't want to bug you all too much, so I read this 'everything you wanted to know about thermal paste' article. (Good article. It has pictures. :D )
OK, one last time, so I'm clear. I need to replace the heatsink fan only. Not the (copper) heatsink itself. However (and here's the catch - for me anyway): Train said "So the temp being what it is says the hsf needs to be removed, the remnants of the thermal patch removed, I used Artic Silver 5 to replace it, and my temps went back down to 50C".
I thought for a minute I was going to get out of this easily by just replacing the fan only. But if I'm interpreting everything correctly between the article and your quote above, Train, in order to remove/replace the thermal paste that means you want me to remove the copper heatsink with those crazy clips that I can't get to budge, yes? (Which likely involves removing the motherboard?) :eek:
Not bad instructions from what I glanced at.
It ties in nicely with AS5 instructions http://www.arcticsilver.com/ins_route_step2amdas5.html
Yes, hate to tell you that, but yes the Thermal paste will need to be replaced. Yours has dried out, has air pockets, but something is right and allowing the heat to climb. :(
I put the a little dab on the cpu then spread it using a ID card until it is paper thin. Credit card will work. Any thicker and you do not get the correct heat transfer and your temps can even climb.
Been down that road myself. :(
OK, if I must, I must. And better get that notebook put back together, for backup ;)
But I'm scared. Not to take the mboard out, but getting that CPU heatsink off and back on again without cracking anything. I found these install/uninstall instructions for GlacialTech, looks simple enough. They just push down on the clip to release. Wonder why mine won't push down...
Thanks for the help!
Nice tutorial there.
Run into that oh no you don't bit myself.
Why we recommend removing the mobo so you can see what the holdup is.
There's a righteous amount of spring tension on that clip - it takes a little bit of elbow grease to push it down. That's where the caution part comes in - don't slip.:) That's why removing the mobo is actually safer, since you can place it on a flat support surface. Trying to do this with the board mounted on standoffs can be dicey.Quote:
Wonder why mine won't push down...
"Don't slip"... yikes! I'm going to be so focused on not slipping that I will slip, know what I mean? :D
I work about 500% slower on hardware than most of you, I'm sure, so can't do this till tomorrow afternoon when schedule is clear. (Took me part of Sat and all day Sunday to get power supply in. Don't laugh. I got confused by all the wires :p )
I'm back. In one piece :D
Got the heatsink off -popped right off once I untangled the mother board and pulled it out (I like my case a lot but will probably never get another one so cramped inside). I've never worked with thermal patch, it didn't look too good under there, tho. Kind of blobbed, like too much. I cleaned it all up with isopropyl alcohol (and all those fan blades, too, stevejr.)
So there I was with all the guts out, no new heatsink fan. Just the bowling ball Zalman unit - sat there staring at it for awhile. Told myself stop being such a sissy, just go for it. (Actually I didn't want to run out and get a fan.) So left the Glacialtech heatsink off and installed the Zalman unit. It's cool looking anyway (especially lit up with the blue LED) and I like cool-looking gadgets! :D I put on a very thin film of thermal patch, just enough to coat the center of the CPU, because my printout said too much was a bad thing.
Actually, the way the Zalman is set up with the brackets, it seems pretty secure on the mbrd. I must have checked measurements a half dozen times, to make sure it met clearance criteria (hard to read millimeters on a cloth tape measure :p ) There's nothing too high near it. It's close to PSU, I have about 1/8" clearance between copper 'fins' and PSU, and I hope that's kosher, it was within Zalman guidelines.
Last night temps were a cool 27/80 for system, 34/93 for CPU (huge drop!!) and cpu fan speed was 1591. I'll wait awhile this morning, after it's been on for some time, and check again. (lgbpop: I connected the little fan speed controller, didn't know where dial should be set so I put it mid range - spinning well but not noisy at all).
Hit some stupid hitches, but that was my fault. I've never messed with CPU and out of curiosity lifted lever and gently took it up just a little for a peek. That's all it took for mboard to think I put on a new CPU. So when I booted up I got a message about a new CPU, etc. Now I typically jot down my BIOS settings with every hardware change, so I have a record. And of course I can't find the sheet with my most recent ones, so had to set BIOS to "fail-safe defaults" till I find that paper.
One thing that concerned me was the way the PSU behaved. I put the Zalman in and wanted to power it up (before I connected anything else). Turned on power, dead. Changed cords, still dead. Got ticked, tapped side of case, power kicks on. Zalman lights up and spins like a pro. Disconnect power, reassemble everything else, turn power back on, dead. Took me several attempts at fiddling with it before I could power up. So far so good, I hope that brand new PSU is not glitchy.
I'm so thrilled about this! (hence my chattering) You guys are just so awesome here. Did you know that PSU and CPU are last bits of hardware I've never done anything with? So now over the years you've taught me how to change everything in my case! :) You have my eternal gratitude, and will always be my hardware gurus ;)
EDIT: Since my PC has been on for 4 hours now, I decided to check temps. Still looking great!
system 27/80
CPU 34/93
And another bonus (that I hope sticks) I rebooted twice this morning and got no post codes. That hasn't happened in ages!
So as long as the new PSU is not on the fritz, all is looking up! (Sorry to rattle on so, I'm just so happy to learn something new, it feels good! )