You can fasten a probe to the heatsink. I would place it as close as possible to the cpu..
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You can fasten a probe to the heatsink. I would place it as close as possible to the cpu..
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Now THERE'S a good question....if you decide to use a regular glass thermometer, which one to use: oral or rectal? Hmmmmm...
Depends I guess if you want to monitor incoming cool air, or measure the exhaust....
I just changed the mainboard to an Abit in a PC. This nice board (BX133) comes with a standard sensor right beneath the processor and then there was a connector on the board to connect a cable with sensor in the other end "to place and meassure at your own choice..". Now, where does one place such a free gift...? My eyes at last fell on that large green chipset cooler (think it hides the BX chipset) and I fastened the sensor there.
I might as well have placed the sensor anywhere else - but where, any suggestions?
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Karl, Denmark
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"..and may The Force be with you too..."
The next hottest thing in there usually is the vid card. Or you can hook it up to drape down into the middle of the case to monitor the general system temp.
I haven't located it yet, but according to the bios there is a general system sensor somewhere, so this is a third monitoring sensor - I'm impressed.
I don't use these "heavy duty" graphics cards (it's a simple Nvidia Vanta 32 MB), so I guess it doesn't get too hot (no fast 3D gaming). There's only a static heatsink attached to it.
I put in some of these new PC166 MHz RAM sticks from PQI. They've got some sort of cooling coat attached on the chip-side. I wonder how hot they get...?
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Karl, Denmark
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"..and may The Force be with you too..."
32MB get hot enough. Mine is a Hercules 32MB.
Mine locks up at about 105F on the heatsink.
Still can't afford the kit.
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So far, CPU running at 100% for ½ hour, system temp says 27 C, CPU reads 45 C and the chipset cooler surface is around 54 C. There is one 120 mm intake fan at the front, the CPU fan and the exhaust fan in the PS - not much, but it seems to be keeping things at a relatively moderate temp.
I could wish for a maybe 4-5 C lower CPU temp, but there is no room for a regular exhaust fan at the rear (it's an old Siemens case).
I guess I'll let it run at 100 % through the night and see if it still lives in the morning.
'night.
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Karl, Denmark
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"..and may The Force be with you too..."
Where would fans be placed on a mini tower, a mid sized, or a fulltower. Same places on each size tower?
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You try to, But. . .
Some just do not allow for the best positioning.
Might have to place it in the top [blowhole] instead. Just not best place. You do want the air to cross the motherboard and definately the cpu.
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So, once again, holes are placed to do the most good with the air from the fan/fans pushing more than pulling to set up a positive air flow.
A quick fix for the tower heating more in the summer is the placement of a house fan to push air onto the tower.
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Best place for exhaust is close to the CPU--air flow from the bottom front, up across the mobo near the vid card and out the exhaust (exhausting system heat and CPU heat). When selecting a case, look for ones that either have both fans installed already, or at least provide a spot for an exhaust (the better ones do). Antec, Inwin cases come to mind among others. For mid-tower (with a high-end vid card and CPU) to full towers, recommend a 120mm intake fan in the front. You may have to enlarge the hole from a 60mm. A 60mm or 80mm (better) for an exhaust. Full towers often have room for one or two additional exhaust fans up above the power supply.
In addition: Check the innards for your IDE ribbon cables and wires. Are they dangling all over the place? Especially that &^%$ long floppy cable? Well, if those cables are turned just right, then you have sails in there--restricting the air flow. Better to fold them up gently (don't put a hard crease in them), tie them up with a rubber band or plastic tie, and tuck them up as best as you can. Be careful not to dislodge any of the connections to the mobo or devices as you do so. (Would be a good idea to double-check all the connections after doing the tuck and tie routine). You can drop the temps down 1 or two degrees, maybe more, in some cases.
ONCE AGAIN https://discussions.virtualdr.com/ UNPLUG the system first and remember to touch the chassis before sticking your fingers in there. No sense in zapping that nice vid card or something else.
Some folks are going in for factory-rounded IDE, ATA and/or floppy cables
(Examples). They help in reducing air drag, but don't look for dramatic drops in temps. They help to reduce the "clutter" though. Using spiral wrap or plastic ties on the power supply wiring helps a little bit also.
[This message has been edited by bistro (edited 06-08-2001).]
Well, it didnt' last more than maybe one hour before the graphics card had frozen up (machine kept running, though..). Seems you were right again, bistro (hate when that happens..)....
The temperatures hadn't changed much during the last 5 hours, but I think I'll dig into my junkpile and see if I can find a graphics card with a fan on top of the chip - and that extra sensor will then be placed somewhere near by!
Maybe I should cannibalize one of those smaller (50 mm) fans from the old harddisk cooler and see if that will fit in at the rear, near the CPU, something's better than nothing....hmmmm....would sure like to suck some more air across that board....hmmm...
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Karl, Denmark
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"..and may The Force be with you too..."
[This message has been edited by kallikru (edited 06-08-2001).]
And so we learn that temperature plays an important part in how well your system works. Still need to do the inspecting of the innards, but tomorrow after a few cups of coffee :-D and when we (hopefully) have some free time.
Ciao!
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Well, if I'm still posting, my computer must be still running! Thank you, Virtual Doctor!
Good Morning All, There is certainly alot to consider in keeping a computer cool. Ain't computers fun?
Bistro, I liked especially the part about the ribbon cable acting lke a sail. Very nice. Having sailed for many years....oops. Sorry. https://discussions.virtualdr.com/ I really didn't want to mention the temp probe having been exposed to your comments on probes in the Operation Delta Threads and I was right. https://discussions.virtualdr.com/ https://discussions.virtualdr.com/
kallikru, I quit many moons ago on Bistro to get ahead of him. Waste of time. I hate it too, but what can you do about it. He has probably got a job that he is paid to do this to us. https://discussions.virtualdr.com/
Matt, Back in the Operation Delta threads, I found out just how important cooling is. Before then, I never gave much thought to it. https://discussions.virtualdr.com/
What about some of the rest of you. Got any good cooling stories? Or do you call it "events" is this day and age. That's it. Any good cooling events? https://discussions.virtualdr.com/
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hi,
on december 29, 2000, someone asked about OEM chips
I'll use some relevant exerpts from that thread
JAL>
As far as I know. In reguards to processors the only difference between the "boxed" And "OEM" is the warranty. Personally I buy the cheapers ones. If your overclocking then you may find out that you get no warranty at all! I overclocked a system long ago and it killed the board and the processor after about 6 months! I am sure heat was the demise of the chip and board. Dust buildup! It wasn't very much but it was enough plus it was August, hotest month of the year! (486 at 160 mghtz) Originally 486 133 mghtz! I have personally worked on some pretty clogged up systems (dust) And the cheaper processors hold up just fine. In these days buy a good copper heatsink and fan! You'll have no probs if properly clocked!
Jtdoom>
the OEM buys them without heatsink and cooler, and plonks whatever they think is adequate of the description "cooling" on the package.
Often without thermal grease too...
Intel boxed fcpga come with intel cooler (these have an intel holomark, and have a thermal pad), or come fully assembled when in secc2 package, again with holomark.
Hence the boxed intel always carry three year warranty, whereas OEM passes on whatever warranty they like or got from distributor (often less than what they got from distri).
btw, a cpu is tested at different speeds, and many people think it will be cool to OC it
Once the clockspeed exeeds whatever cache or cpu can handle, problemo.
cache misses usu appear first, kills the illgotten gains....
my advice, do not OC, get proper boxed CPU.
(edit>> make that properly COOLED CPU)
and then I pasted a txt I wrote about CPU COOLING
When load on CPU increases, and temperature climbs, and after a while sound/video starts to stutter.….
And hell, It may even reboot right into bios…..
Well, if any of that happens, I suggest you look at CPU cooling.
about heat problems.
Just remember that when I mention thermal interface, I mean the connecting surfaces of cooler and CPU. The coolerplate sometimes does not fully connect, which you can see when you hold it against light and look between cooler and cpu.
If you need to pull out the CPU assembly to look into this matter, be sure to remove POWERCORD. If a bunch of ribbon/cables are blocking air from the CPU fan, try moving them out of harms way. Adding a second system fan can do a lot of good. Used wisely, it creates a cross flow thru the case, and graphics card and CPU will benefit.
One way of deducing if the cooler is properly attached and gets proper thermal connection is quite simple.
If you boot into bios and look at CPU temp, it should stay below 36 to 38C.
Then you boot into the Operating system (windows, whatever) and play a demanding game for a while, or do some heavy number cruching, Kill the app, and immediately shut off/reboot into bios where you again check CPU temp.
If you see temps of over 55C, and not dropping rapidly to below 40C, you may have to look at the thermal interface.
apply a thin film of thermal compound, and when you put the coolerplate back on you instantly feel if the connect is good as it kinda sticks. If not, you may have some wrong type of hardware installed in the assembly (been known to happen) preventing the surfaces to fully connect.
btw, you can use one of those credit card like things to evenly distribute the thermal paste. You probably have a ton of those cards they issue at the malls which you don't use. I see people say they use a razor.
I consider that rather unwise.
it's metal, and it can hurt YOU and the CPU
make sure there are no bubbles in the paste
(I will tell you a secret, I use my index finger)
As an aside, I am kinda annoyed when I see OEM Flipchips come with stickers on the chip. for example, one paper sticker (covering half o/t chip and applied over the smaller sticker) and one small white plasticky sticker with SN (Bang in centre of chip, covering about one third). The smaller one says warranty void if removed, but they'd sure interfere with cooling since the chip and coolerplate surfaces would not completely connect. When I installed them OEMs, I peeled them clean and put them stickers where they do no harm. My vendor agrees that their placement is quite stupid, and agreed to my moving them. (thus I keep warranty)
It's quite another story on INTEL Boxed solutions, because the tape seen on the cooler is a thermal pad. (the intel boxed assemblies' warranty is MUCH better)
Also, avoid slotket solutions with OEM chips....
http://support.intel.com/support/pro...ii/thermal.htm
<A HREF="ftp://download.intel.nl/support/processors/manuals/fcpgaman1.pdf" TARGET=_blank>
ftp://download.intel.nl/support/processors/manuals/fcpgaman1.pdf</A>
Thermal Airflow Considerations - SECC2 OLGA Heat Sink Cooling In an ATX CHASSIS
Pentium® III Processor Thermal Design Guidelines
temperature metrology
many mobo have a thermal detector built in.
on slot one mobo, one could see a flimsy strip crawl under the CPU frock https://discussions.virtualdr.com/
https://discussions.virtualdr.com/ anyway, the CPU have a thermal detect built in. (the PC siren goes off when cpu goes in thermal protect and CPU shuts off), but some mobo bioses cannot talk to it.
on those mobo where thermal detector was an option only, one can sometimes still stick one of them thermistor strips to the CPU assembly.
btw, if some of my words seem weird, primo, I speak Flemish, secundo, it's my laymans' way.
when you read above, it told you about an easy way to check for thermal problems.
Of course, that was if one had the thermometer option in mobo...
If a game starts to "stutter"
(sound stutters, or graphics hang and sound stutters) you can be reasonably sure there IS a thermal problem.
some URL were defunct >> corrected
[This message has been edited by jtdoom (edited 06-08-2001).]