Unless you have an SLI-capable motherboard, you will have no use for the additional PCI-express connector whatsoever. Apart from that there is no significant difference, and I don't think it would be worth the aggravation of RMAing it.
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Unless you have an SLI-capable motherboard, you will have no use for the additional PCI-express connector whatsoever. Apart from that there is no significant difference, and I don't think it would be worth the aggravation of RMAing it.
OK, Nick, you answered my next question. My m-board is old enough that I'm pretty sure it's not SLI capable (specs for it are on my first post here), so PCI-espress is not relevant to me until I upgrade m-board (later, I hope, since so much other hardware will need upgraded with it). I looked up PCI-express, which is newer version of graphics cards, is that correct? And if so, would there ever be a scenario in the near future where one would need two graphics cards (and therefore two PCI-express)?
The only other difference that I see that might be significant (but looks like you all think it's not) is the 12v x 1 on the 2.0 I received, whereas the 2.2 has 12v x 2. If that's not a big deal, then I have no problem whatsoever asking newegg if they'd be willing to credit me the rebate rather than go through the trouble of RMA.
I'm totally relying in you guys here. I'm just the one footing the bill (and installing, yikes :eek:), so trust your wisdom & judgement. ;)
lgbpop, thanks for reassurance about the CPU cooler. (I still know there is a part of me that will be listening for an unexpected ~thud~ at first :D ) Only other issue I might run into is fit (again, very tight in the case), but I think it will manage OK.
You really have to be a rabid gamer to feel the need for dual graphics cards in SLI-mode. Or the other advantage to SLI capable mobos is if you need more than two monitors, you can use 2 cards in non-SLI mode for that, and have up to 4 monitors.
As for the 2x12 volt connectors, they are only just starting to even be fitted to mobos. On the Gigabyte board on my Core 2 Duo rig, for example, it has the 2x12volt connector, but it will still work just as happily with a single 12volt ATX plugged in for those without the twin 12volt PSU - I had to remove a blanking plug to fit the 8-pin 2x12v connector, which shows how unnecessary it is at the moment. It's possible that some of the multicore CPU's of the future may actually need the 2 x 12volt, but at the moment I think it is just futureproofing built into the specs.
In any case, were you ever to fit 2 graphics cards and a CPU that really required the 2x12volt in future, you would probably need a larger PSU. 700 to 800 Watts are becoming commonplace for high-end systems now.
Great, thanks Nick, for the info, very informative and reassuring ;) Thanks to everyone else, too. :) I'm going to see what newegg will do for me (I'll let you know how that works out). Hopefully get going on installing this weekend!
Well, I just did a live chat with newegg Customer Service. A little bit weird at first (she must have been having a bad day), said they couldn't guarantee version # of stock items since inventory moves so fast, unless item # is specifically stated. So then I linked her to the item page showing the version number clearly states 2.2. So she changed her tune, and gave me a $15 credit (amount of rebate) and said the newegg return policy (30 day full refund, 1 year replacement) still applies.
So all worked out well in the end ;)
I'm going to tackle this in the morning. Can't be back to bug you till all is said and done tho, since my other PC (notebook) is still laying around in pieces. (Started on the elusive lap top CMOS battery hunt and still haven't gotten that one wrapped up yet.)
I'm back. I got the new power supply in, all went well. I didn't blow anything up and everything's hooked up and running. :D While I was at it, I replaced the front door to my case (Antec sent me a free replacement) since the front USB ports had receded into the case. So that's working again as well.
The only problem is installing the Zalman CPU Cooler. My Chaintech 7nif2 is listed as compatible , as long as I watch that it doesn't get too close to power supply or other hardware (roughly 3/16" clearance from edge of fan to any surrounding hardware). It's going to be really close, but I think it will be just at the minimum.
The problem is I can't get what's currently on top the CPU removed. When my friend gave me this mboard, he had already installed the XP 2500+ processor and heatsink/fan on top if it (little inexpensive plastic fan).I've attached a document with a photo of mine (it's the copper one) and one with similar (if not idential) clips. That round tab you see at the top of the photo must be the key to getting if off, because I see no screws. It's like I need to move that copper tab/lever somehow to release those clips from the CPU. At best I've been able to slide it horizontally just a hair (seems the direction to take, but I'm not sure.) So I don't think it's glued down. That lever is snug, and am afraid if I keep trying to remove the current copper cooler, I'm going to crack CPU or mboard or both.
If you can ID from the photo what is it and how it works, maybe I can get it off the 'right' way. The other issue is if I DO get it off, and the Zalman doesn't work (due to tight fit), I'm not sure I can get the original back on again.
TIA,
Kat
You have the right place alright. You should push down and rotate it away from the catches that hold it in place.
Should be able to catch it with a flat tip screw drive, double check to see if the slot is there, and if it is make darn sure it is a tight fit and DO NOT SLIP.
You can destroy the mobo if you hit it. Maybe you might even want to post a better picture of the end with teh tab first!
You'd better resign yourself to removing the motherboard, at which point removing the current HSF will be much easier. To mount that Zalman to a Socket A/462 board, the mounting brackets attach to the mobo with screws from the underside of the board and then the Zalman screws to the brackets.
To remove the old HSF, you have to push down on the spring-steel clip bar with one hand (to relieve the spring tension) and use a screwdriver or similar to pry the clip away from the plastic socket-base tabs with the other hand. Once the clip has been removed from one side, it easily clears the base tabs on the other side. Gently twist the HSF a bit to break the old thermal paste and it should then lift away from the CPU. You need to clean all the old thermal paste off of the center of the CPU before applying new paste.
OK, thanks Train. Will try for better photos first, to be safe (tight in there, will do my best). Be back in a bit.
EDIT: I just lgbpop's post. I'm going to step outside and freak out for a minute. BRB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KatMac
Welcome to the club! ;) :D
This club is not good for blood pressure sometimes, I think :D
OK, this is scaring me, I fear something major will crack (me, mboard, CPU or all of the above :p ). I feel the need to find a compromise (to buy some time). Here's why: It's tax season. I have multiple returns to prepare (work and personal). If I slip and ruin mboard right now, I'm going to put myself (and others) up the proverbial creek. :eek:
So PC has been running hot. But power has been goobered up as well since I had to fiddle with power strip to do a reboot. At about the same time my Power Save functions for Windows quit. I had it set to shut down after a an hour of inactivity. I'd walk in here in the middle of the night and it would be running.
So, do you think the new Power Supply will correct that? Or can I manually shut down and restart throughout the day (a pain, cause I'm on and off here frequently, but I'll do it if I have to.) Can I keep the PC cool that way without risking problems?
Can I skate for a month or so before installing the new Zalman? And just out of curiosity, what does one use to remove old thermal grease?
Fact is you could even mount a better fan on your present heatsink if you wish.
And I feel you should be able to SKATE as you stated. A daily reboot maybe required.
Removing old thermal grease/pad .
I use my thumbnail to remove the heavy stuff then 97+% rubbing alcohol to remove the rest.
Make sure it has no additives so the cpu and all are sqeaky clean when done.
Oh, Train, thank you. Skating sounds good at this point.
Would you be so kind as to recommend a 'better' quality fan? What I have on the heat sink is what my friend stuck on there 3 years ago, it's a little plastic 3x3" Glacier Tech. And as long as I'm buying fans, I noticed after I got the new power supply in that the chipset fan (2x2 gold metal) is not working. Don't know when that happened, I generally don't have my case open with power on, gives me the willies. Only did it this time to check new power supply. So I don't know if it's the chipset fan itself, the pins on mboard it connects to, or that I was supposed to connect that one to power supply but didn't. (Heat sink fan just connects right to mboard and runs, so I thought chipset fan was the same.)
New/better fans might ultimately be the best route for me while I squeeze all the life I can out of this mboard + hardware. The Zalman looks like a top of the line cooler, but they also have very explicit space requirements. With the smaller case and mboard, I measured this a.m., and best estimate it would be a close call. So I could go to the trouble of installing it (while earnestly praying I didn't break something) and then it would be too close to PSU so I'd have to undo it. (That would lead to another freak out :D )
Just an aside, I tried to get good 'overall' cooling in there (I think?). The PSU fan, rear case fan, and an add-on case fan I installed in the front a few years ago, an Antec ball bearing, want to say it's 80mm, 120mm? (It's 4x4")
4x4 = 120mm
3x3 = 80MM
Need more information off the fan if you can.
Seems it came The Overclockerz Store which shutdown.
A 3 wire case fan with a good airflow and noise ratio should do the trick.
Well, looks like I'm still in trouble here. PC was booting up, restarting, no hitches all afternoon. Just now I had to power it off altogether and hit power again before Windows would launch. I'm still getting various post codes at start up as well (75 regularly, 50 & 6B this evening). Although I've searched for awhile now, can't find the meaning. Chaintech has removed info from their site and can't find anyone else who has it.
Here are my fans:
Front of case (my add-on at 12/2003 rebuild) : Antec SmartCool 120 mm
Chipset: unknown 2 wire generic, 1 5/8" x 1 5/8" (remember now my friend gave it to me 3 yrs ago, probably obtained from a PC show). It bit the dust. Took it off, can't make blades rotate manually.
CPU: GlacialTech Bi-Sonic, DC Brushless Fan Motor, Model BS701512L 03; DC 12V; 0.15A 3 wire (blk, red, yellow).
Note: couldn't see a name on CPU heat sink, but when I saw back of CPU fan with GlacialTech logo, CPU heatsink also has GlacialTech logo. So it's a set (I thought it wasn't)
Rear fan: Antec 120mm, came with the case
Xion PSU Fan: 140mm Silent LED
(something else interesting. Newegg was selling 2.2, I received 2.0. Box on 2.0 says it has- and shows- an auto/manual fan speed adjustment with an LED light next to rear power on/off switch. Not on mine. So I have no idea what fan I got :confused: Definitely 500 watts tho.)
I am beginning to be convinced I'm playing roulette with this mother board.