Limited time shell shocker deal:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145198
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Limited time shell shocker deal:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145198
I did a comparison among those 3 and still could not tell the difference among them. I don't think they carry UD4P or at least not for a 1366 socket.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
The UD4P may well have been superseded by now, it was fairly long in the tooth for an X58 board when I bought it 9 months ago, and motherboards rarely stay around for long. I had the same problem as you, there were several models of board with near identical features.
The last one of the three that you linked to has had some excellent reviews, but it is very expensive.
Nick, you said there is no such thing as DDR3 2000.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
Here it is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227571
If you go to the following page and scroll down to the middle, it will show all the type of RAM.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/PowerS...147&GASearch=3
Otherwise, I might be missing something.
BTW... Is G.Skill or Patriot good? I think I read one of your posts a long time ago that you prefer Crucial or Cosair right?
Oh well, I have to stand corrected that it doesn't exist. It is not a JDEC standard, however, so I was sort of right:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DDR3_SDRAM
I have no experience of G.Skill or Patriot, but I can't say that I've seen many complaints about either. My preferred brands are Corsair, OCZ, Crucial, Kingston.
Thanks Bud. It is rare when someone can correct you.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
I know you're not after a gaming CPU particularly, but you might find this interesting nonetheless:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/best-g...iew-31969.html
Actually, the CPU I am getting is in that list Nick - Core i7-930. The article mention good things about it and there is no AMD equivalent to the i7 yet I guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/best-g...w-31969-7.html
So the way how I see it is, if you build a good gaming computer, then it can easily handle video and graphical editoring.
That would be a fair assessment.
BTW... This is what I will be getting today:
Core i7-930 Processor Boxed
Mfr Part #: 582759
GA-X58A-UD5 LGA 1366 X58 ATX Motherboard
Mfr Part #: GA-X58A-UD5
Gold XTC 6GB DDR3-1600 (PC3-12800) CL8 Memory Kit (Three 2GB Memory Modules)
Mfr Part #: OCZ3G1600LV6GK
ModXStream Pro 700W Modular ATX Power Supply
Mfr Part #: OCZ700MXSP
Gigabyte Motherboard has revision 1.0 and revision 2.0. What does that mean?
It just means that they have made a minor change or two, and tweaked something on the board. If you have a choice, go for Rev 2, but it's not a big deal.
Good choices, but some more details of the PSU would be good - it's not a brand that I've ever come across before.
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0301550
ModXStream Pro 700W Modular ATX Power Supply
Our Price: $79.99
After Rebate: $59.99 after rebate savings
SKU 037697
Mfr Part #: OCZ700MXSP
UPC: 842024009122
As for the motherboard, I don't know what revision they have until I pickup today.
Oh right, it's an OCZ one. That's an excellent brand, and another good choice :)
OK, I bought all of the above and installed it today. After changing a few changes in the BIOS and reboot back into it, all the settings would dim out. So, I reset the CMOS and everything is good. I installed Windows 7 and then when going into BIOS, it happened again where I cannot make any changes to the settings. If I reset the CMOS, I would lose my MARVELL RAID settings.
Why is the BIOS acting this way? Can't be another bad PSU right?
Kind of weird, I removed the BIOS password and everything is fine now.
So, now I see another situation. I did a property on the Computer in Windows 7. The CPU is an Intel 930 2.8 ghz. But beside it, it shows 2.79 ghz. I did not recall over/underclocking it. How can I make it so that it runs at factory settings?
Either the voltage is slightly low or the sensor is off.
I would not worry about it myself. Seen a lot of that over the years.
What does CPU-Z show?
http://www.cpuid.com/
The clocks are often slightly out. By the time you've factored in the multiplier, it can easily give a 0.01 difference from nominal like that. As Train says, it is nothing to be concerned about.
Which one were you referring to Train? The BIOS dimming the settings problem or Windows 7 not showing 2.8ghz.Quote:
Originally Posted by Train
If it is the BIOS, it only happens when I add a user password to enter setup. I think that is a bug which I am going to contact Gigabyte to let them know.
Either one but do take SS post into consideration as his backs mine up.
In order to get the OCZ Memory to perform at 1600 since it is DDR3 1660, but loading at 1066, I found this and did it. Is it safe? I am unclear on the Uncore Clock Ratio.
Look under "Feedback"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820227365
Quote:
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) -> Advanced Frequency Settings:
Unccore Clock Ratio - x24 (@3200MHz)
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) - 12.0 (@1600MHz)
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) -> Advanced Memory Settings:
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) – 12.0 (@1600Mhz)
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) – Expert (necessary to change the following Timing Settings: )
Channel A Timing Settings - CAS Latency 8, tRCD 8, tRP 8, tRAS 24, Command Rate 2
Channel B – same
Channel C – same
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.) -> Advanced Voltage Settings:
QPI/Vtt Voltage – 1.335V
DRAM Voltage – 1.640V
Unless I specified a change here, everything was at AUTO or the default value.
The default speed for the memory on the i7-900 series is 1066. Overclocking the memory on its own is a bit unorthodox, and I'm not really sure that it's worth doing TBH. It would be better to leave the memory multiplier be, and simply increase the main clock, which will then overclock the CPU and memory together. You should be able to get a worthwhile O/C on stock voltages - I got 15% out of mine without any effort at all.
:p:DQuote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
What is TBH?Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
I changed the "Memory Multiplier" back to "Auto".Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
I would still need to do the following right so that the memory would match the recommended SPECs from OCZ, right?
Should I change BOTH back to "AUTO" because OCZ specs is 1.65 for the volt.Quote:
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) – Expert (necessary to change the following Timing Settings: )
Channel A Timing Settings - CAS Latency 8, tRCD 8, tRP 8, tRAS 24, Command Rate 2
Channel B – same
Channel C – same
Thanks Nick :cool::cool:Quote:
QPI/Vtt Voltage – 1.335V
DRAM Voltage – 1.640V
TBH = To Be Honest
I would set both back to auto for the moment. Messing with the memory settings is getting into the realms of advanced overclocking, and it's probably more sensible to start with the basics ;)
Yeah, I don't want to overclock and did not know that is considered as overclocking the memory. I thought I was setting it to specs. So, should I still set the latency of the memory to the OCZ specs?Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
If you leave the BIOS settings at Auto, it should take care of latency, etc.
I just would like to thank everyone (especially Nick, jdc2000 and Train) on this thread for helping me on this topic. My semi-new computer is back up and going. I learned one thing from Nick is not to overload the rails on the power supply. Learned alot from this thread. Thanks guys.
BTW... Nick, do you use EasyTune6 to monitor your CPU and Hardware temperature? Otherwise, what do you use? Also, what is the average temp for an i7-930? Mine is running at between 49-60 celsius.
I tried EasyTune once, but I didn't care for it. I use these, HWMonitor and RealTemp are my favourites, but running OCCT occasionally is always worthwhile, as it really stresses the CPU, so that you can be sure that the computer will always be within acceptable temps, whatever you throw at it.
Real Temp
CPU-Z
HWMonitor
OCCT
49 to 60 is fine. Start to worry if the core temp goes over 85C.
BTW, did you ever see this old thread of mine:
http://discussions.virtualdr.com/sho...t=watercooling
After seeing that thread, I really admire and respect you as a true hobby enthusiast. That is so cool! What else did you add to your Antec because I see couple of other things in your 5.25 bayer area.Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSparks
Bistro first comment was funny.
Also, is this for real? I never knew you could do this? How come there is no electrical surge or problems? Is it a good cooling system?
http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php
In that thread, it also mentioned about this:http://www.arctic-cooling.com/catalo...th=39_&mID=127
What is your take on it before I run out and get it?
In my 5.25" bays I have drive caddies, 2 DVD burners and the IO bay for the Creative X-Fi.
Because mineral oil is non-conductive, there are no electrical problems. If memory serves, there are other, less messy, liquids that you can use too, though they are exotic and expensive. It is a good means of cooling, but really is a solution for the serious overclocker, I think :D
Myself, I've been happy with Arctic Silver for a few years. TBH, the real-world difference between any of the top quality compounds is pretty slight.